For my project I needed a selection of images that are recognizable for the moder Bulgarian citizen and that are actually landmarks so that there is an interesting story behind the place (since the whole per-photography thing is actually part of the Culture Crossroads project hence the condition of the place having some story to tell was a must. I am usually the type of person who would go around town and show people around, telling those stories so to me these places bear not only the history of a country but also the history of my own family.
This is a gallery of the images I initially selected (99% of which come from the Old Sofia project page, many thanks to them for being so helpful - but about that and copyright permission, in a separate post). Even though this is a gallery, I will say a few words about the significance of each place and why I chose this particular image (detailed information in the WIP post with all final results)
The National Assembly and the Academy of Sciences
This is one of the places around Sofia that has changed the least for the past 100+ years. What drew me to the pic was the old tram. What now goes on at that place is only cars and the occasional bus. Hence this is an invaluable piece of information. Plus, the angle is absolutely doable.
The Russian Church, the Artist's cafe and the Military club
Another place that changed very little throughout the years, the only two differences now are that the Artists' cafe had been demolished in the 1970s and the place in the foreground is a huge park. That cafe was the place where the classicists of Bulgarian literature, music and painting used to gather. That was an old, grubby and dull building which posed a threat to the passers-by and was eventually destroyed. There us a wonderful garden at its place now.
The monument of Vasil Levski
This place has not changed a lot but its surroundings have - this is the monument of the national hero Vasil Levski, one of the first to fight for national freedom and the first who came up with the idea of a centralized resistance system to undermine the Ottomans. In 1873 he was captured, tried and hanged near the place where this monument now stands. Then it was at the end of the city, now it is in its ideal center. The grave of Vasil Levski is said to be in the alter of another church in the center - Sain Petka Samardzhiiska.
Saint Alexander Nevski cathedral
Another place that has not changed much, but the surroundings have. Saint Alexander Nevski is one of the landmarks of Sofia and the biggest Christian Orthodox church on the Balkans. It was built in the 1910s and back then sparked a huge debate - mainly because of the patron saint who was actually a Russian warrior-tsar, not a Bulgarian saint.
This is one of the images of the church I initially selected since I was not sure which angle would work out best. The place is huge and it is a but tricky to be captured in one picture. I had another one in mind but one has to be prepared.
The monument of Lenin in opposite of the Triangle of Power complex (now there stands the monument of Saint Sofia)
When I saw this, I literally burst out laughing - never knew that there had been a monument of Lenin in Sofia, let alone in the city center. Hence, since at that place now stands the monument of Saint Sofia, the patron saint of Sofia, decided to include it in the project - the difference is so stark, I can't even think of anything else in contrast to this.
The monument of the Tsar-liberator (Alexander II of Russia) and the Sofia University rectorate building
The Sofia University rectortate is one of the biggest buildings in Sofia, its construction ended somewhere around 1970s. Students there often joke it resembles Hogwards from the Harry Poter series. And indeed, this place has such a complicated plan that you need a map to navigate inside and there is always something new to find - like doors leading to nowhere, lecture halls with a fireplace etc. In the 1930s, the building, now a city landmark, had nothing to do with what can be seen today and that's one of the reasons I chose this image. The area around the monument has also changed - as it is now a public parking space.
The monument of Vasil Levksi - another angle (just for the sake of being safe
Lions' bridge (Lavov most)
This is one of the most iconic places in Sofia - mostly because of the 4 bronze lions that flank the bridge and guard the entrance to the downtown area. The 4 lions are there for a reason. In the 1800s (full story in another post) 4 book makers of Bulgarian dissent were accused of revolutionary activities (their true guilt being only that they were all men of authority within the Bulgarian community) and brutally killed in front of their families, then their dead bodies were hanged to rot in front of their shops. To commemorate them, the lions now stand at the bridge, so that they should never be forgotten.
Lions' bridge is one of the busiest crossroads in Sofia (there was a recent renovation and they made a round about and three crossroads one atop of another). The image (probably from the 1920s, have to check again) shows a busy crossroads too. But there are bulls instead of trams and cars and I would really like to capture the contrast of how the place has changed.
The monument of the Tsar-liberator (Alexander II of Russia)
The place has changed significantly throughout the years and even though the monument itself did not change much, the surrounding landscape did.
Lions' bridge (another angle just to be sure things will work)
Mariya Luisa boulevard
Mariya Luisa boulevard is one of the busiest and oldest streets in Sofia, connecting several of the city landmarks. In the picture one can see the main store at the time (the 'hali') which still exists today, the tram line (still exists, just looks different) and the surrounding buildings (like the Baniya Bashi mosque to the right, still standing today).
The boulevard was named after the tsar's sister, knaginiya Mariya Luisa, the lady must be around 85 now. Bulgaria is a bit weird because we are a parliamentary republic BUT we actually have a living tsar, His Royal Heighness tsar Simeon II. Point is that in 1944, when the Communists came to power, Simeon was a child, reigning through a council of regents (the prime minister and his two uncles). He, along with his mother, the dowager tsaritsa Ioanna, and his sister were forced to leave the country. And they did, but Simeon never really abdicated. So, when he came back to Bulgaria at the end of the 1990s and became a prime minister of Bulgaria, he held (and still holds) the Guinness record for the only monarch who has both ruled as a tsar and as a prime minister at the same time.
Anyway, this boulevard is one of the few exceptions when a street is named after someone who is still alive.
Sofia University rectorate building, 1930s
Saint Alexander Nevski cathedral under construction, 1910
Eagles' bridge
The other exit of the city, on the road to Istanbul, is guarded not by lions but by eagles. As far as I know, the reason being that they too symbolize some dead heroes but need to check why exactly. This is a very old image - nowadays this place is flanked by high buildings.
The royal palace of Bulgarian tsars
An architectural masterpiece built in the 1880s by Viennese architects, this is one of the most beautiful buildings in Sofia, despite the decades of efforts from the Communist government to have it demolished. It was once an amazing place to be, today - it has only blank walls and a stone fireplace no one managed to steal. It houses the national gallery now.
The landscape around the building has changed significantly.
The national theater
One of the most beautiful buildings in Sofia and one of the landmarks ever since the 1880s. This place was once surrounded by buildings that matched its splendour. Now it is neighbouring the dark-looking building of the Ministry of Defence (have no idea what this thing to the left is, it no longer exists)
Mariya Luisa boulevard overlooking the Saint Nedekia church (Agia Kiriaki) - before the attack in it
The monument of the fallen Russian soldiers (Ruski pametnik)
I have no exact idea why we have so many monuments of Russian soldiers in Sofia and will need to check which war does this monument have in mind. One is certain - this is one of the busiest crossroads in Sofia and was once the nightmare of any driver-to-be because of the complex traffic rules (the story went that if the examiner wants to fail you, they will put you though that crossroads).
Ruski pametnik was once marking the edge of Sofia (it is in another direction from the Lions' and the Eagles' bridge).
Saint George rotunda
It was built in the 4th century AD by the Romans on the remains of other archaeological remains (most of which were destoryed by the Comrades in the 1950s) and is practically one of the oldest churches in Bulgaria that is still in use. It has amazing frescoes and it is deemed one of the most important places of the Serdica Ecumenical Council. All in all, the fate of the Roman empire was determined behind its walls.
The church has been used for many a thing over the years - both as religious and secular building. During the Ottoman rule, it even functioned as a mosque.
This church was destined for demolition in the 1950s. The reason was simple - it was located in the middle of the Presidential complex. The Comrades wanted to destroy it so that the government officials can go to the hotel next door in style (by car, that is). Problem was that this church was just in the way. Moreover, they discovered the palace of Constantine the Great and decided to preserve at least the part that was inside the building. The church, however, was a different story since the new ideology regarded religion as something degrading.
Here the church was saved by society - it is an example of different styles of iconography and you can see four centuries of frescoes and their development during the centuries along its walls. It is still quoted in art historians' textbooks and history books as a unique example.
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